How to Install Coving
Step-by-step guide to fitting coving and cornice, including mitre cutting, adhesive application, internal and external corners, and finishing.
Tools and Materials
Tools Required
- Mitre box or mitre saw
- Fine-tooth saw (for clean cuts)
- Tape measure and pencil
- Step ladder
- Filling knife or small trowel
- Sponge and bucket of water
- Caulk gun
- Sandpaper (120 grit)
- Panel pins and hammer (for heavy cornice)
Materials Required
- Coving or cornice (add 10% for cuts/waste)
- Coving adhesive
- Decorators caulk
- Fine surface filler
- Paint (emulsion to match ceiling)
Before You Start
- Remove any old coving and clean the wall and ceiling surfaces
- Mark the coving line on the wall and ceiling by holding a piece in position and drawing along both edges
- Score along the marked lines with a Stanley knife — this helps the adhesive grip
- Plan your starting point — begin at the wall opposite the door for the best visual impact
- Practice mitre cuts on offcuts before cutting the actual pieces
Step-by-Step Installation
- Step 1 — Mark the guide lines. Hold a piece of coving in position in the corner and draw along the bottom edge (wall) and top edge (ceiling) with a pencil. Repeat at each corner to create continuous guide lines around the room.
- Step 2 — Score the surfaces. Score the wall and ceiling between the guide lines with a Stanley knife or old screwdriver to create a key for the adhesive. Remove any loose paint or wallpaper within this area.
- Step 3 — Cut the first corner pieces. Cut the internal corner mitres for the first corner using a mitre box. Remember: the coving sits upside down in the mitre box. Cut a left and right mitre and test-fit them in the corner before applying adhesive.
- Step 4 — Apply adhesive. Apply a continuous bead of coving adhesive to both the ceiling edge and wall edge of the coving. Apply generously — excess can be wiped away.
- Step 5 — Fix the first piece. Press the coving firmly into position, aligning with the guide lines. Slide it gently into the corner. Wipe away excess adhesive with a damp sponge. For heavy cornice, drive a few panel pins through the coving to hold it while the adhesive sets.
- Step 6 — Continue around the room. Work around the room, cutting mitres for each corner. For straight joins, cut both pieces at a slight angle (scarf joint) rather than butting square ends together. Apply adhesive to both the wall/ceiling edges and the joint faces.
- Step 7 — External corners. For external corners (chimney breasts, box-outs), cut external mitres — the opposite direction to internal corners. Glue the mitre faces together for a strong joint.
- Step 8 — Fill and finish. Once the adhesive has set (typically 4-6 hours), fill any gaps at joints and along the edges with fine filler or caulk. Sand smooth when dry. Apply paint to match the ceiling — coving is usually painted the same colour as the ceiling.
Common Mistakes
- Putting the coving the right way up in the mitre box — it must sit upside down with the ceiling edge on the base
- Not scoring the surfaces — adhesive does not grip well on smooth painted surfaces
- Skimping on adhesive — use plenty; it is much easier to wipe away excess than fill gaps later
- Not supporting heavy cornice with pins — it will slide down before the adhesive sets
- Rushing the corner joints — take time to test-fit dry before applying adhesive
Cost Estimate (2026)
| Item | Typical Cost |
|---|---|
| Polystyrene coving (per 2 m length) | £2-5 |
| Plaster coving (per 2 m length) | £5-15 |
| Decorative cornice (per 2 m length) | £15-40 |
| Coving adhesive (per tub) | £5-10 |
| Total (average room 12 m perimeter, plaster coving, DIY) | £50-120 |
Related Calculators
Use the Coving Calculator for lengths and adhesive quantities, or the Cornice & Coving Calculator for more detailed specifications.
How We Calculate This
Frequently Asked Questions
Related Calculators
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Last updated: April 2026
All calculations are estimates. Verify with your supplier.
