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How to Install Coving

Step-by-step guide to fitting coving and cornice, including mitre cutting, adhesive application, internal and external corners, and finishing.

Tools and Materials

Tools Required

  • Mitre box or mitre saw
  • Fine-tooth saw (for clean cuts)
  • Tape measure and pencil
  • Step ladder
  • Filling knife or small trowel
  • Sponge and bucket of water
  • Caulk gun
  • Sandpaper (120 grit)
  • Panel pins and hammer (for heavy cornice)

Materials Required

  • Coving or cornice (add 10% for cuts/waste)
  • Coving adhesive
  • Decorators caulk
  • Fine surface filler
  • Paint (emulsion to match ceiling)

Before You Start

  • Remove any old coving and clean the wall and ceiling surfaces
  • Mark the coving line on the wall and ceiling by holding a piece in position and drawing along both edges
  • Score along the marked lines with a Stanley knife — this helps the adhesive grip
  • Plan your starting point — begin at the wall opposite the door for the best visual impact
  • Practice mitre cuts on offcuts before cutting the actual pieces

Step-by-Step Installation

  1. Step 1 — Mark the guide lines. Hold a piece of coving in position in the corner and draw along the bottom edge (wall) and top edge (ceiling) with a pencil. Repeat at each corner to create continuous guide lines around the room.
  2. Step 2 — Score the surfaces. Score the wall and ceiling between the guide lines with a Stanley knife or old screwdriver to create a key for the adhesive. Remove any loose paint or wallpaper within this area.
  3. Step 3 — Cut the first corner pieces. Cut the internal corner mitres for the first corner using a mitre box. Remember: the coving sits upside down in the mitre box. Cut a left and right mitre and test-fit them in the corner before applying adhesive.
  4. Step 4 — Apply adhesive. Apply a continuous bead of coving adhesive to both the ceiling edge and wall edge of the coving. Apply generously — excess can be wiped away.
  5. Step 5 — Fix the first piece. Press the coving firmly into position, aligning with the guide lines. Slide it gently into the corner. Wipe away excess adhesive with a damp sponge. For heavy cornice, drive a few panel pins through the coving to hold it while the adhesive sets.
  6. Step 6 — Continue around the room. Work around the room, cutting mitres for each corner. For straight joins, cut both pieces at a slight angle (scarf joint) rather than butting square ends together. Apply adhesive to both the wall/ceiling edges and the joint faces.
  7. Step 7 — External corners. For external corners (chimney breasts, box-outs), cut external mitres — the opposite direction to internal corners. Glue the mitre faces together for a strong joint.
  8. Step 8 — Fill and finish. Once the adhesive has set (typically 4-6 hours), fill any gaps at joints and along the edges with fine filler or caulk. Sand smooth when dry. Apply paint to match the ceiling — coving is usually painted the same colour as the ceiling.

Common Mistakes

  • Putting the coving the right way up in the mitre box — it must sit upside down with the ceiling edge on the base
  • Not scoring the surfaces — adhesive does not grip well on smooth painted surfaces
  • Skimping on adhesive — use plenty; it is much easier to wipe away excess than fill gaps later
  • Not supporting heavy cornice with pins — it will slide down before the adhesive sets
  • Rushing the corner joints — take time to test-fit dry before applying adhesive

Cost Estimate (2026)

ItemTypical Cost
Polystyrene coving (per 2 m length)£2-5
Plaster coving (per 2 m length)£5-15
Decorative cornice (per 2 m length)£15-40
Coving adhesive (per tub)£5-10
Total (average room 12 m perimeter, plaster coving, DIY)£50-120

Related Calculators

Use the Coving Calculator for lengths and adhesive quantities, or the Cornice & Coving Calculator for more detailed specifications.

How We Calculate This

Frequently Asked Questions

Last updated: April 2026

All calculations are estimates. Verify with your supplier.