How to Install Gutters — Step-by-Step UK Guide

What You'll Need

Before You Start

• Inspect the fascia board for rot — gutter brackets must be fixed to sound timber. Replace any damaged fascia before fitting new gutters.
• Measure the total gutter run and note the positions of outlets, angles, stop ends and downpipes. Sketch a plan.
• Use our Gutter Sizing Calculator to determine the correct gutter size for your roof area and our Gutter Bracket Calculator to work out bracket quantities.
• Check where the downpipe will discharge — into an existing gulley, water butt or soakaway.
• Choose a system and buy all components from the same manufacturer to ensure compatibility.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Remove Old Guttering

Working from a ladder, remove old gutter lengths, brackets and downpipes. Lever out old screws or cut through corroded fixings. Inspect and repair the fascia board beneath. Fill old screw holes with exterior filler if they coincide with new bracket positions.

Step 2: Mark the Fall

Fix a nail at the high end of the gutter run, level with the bottom of the roof tiles (the gutter should sit just below the tile edge so water drips in). Calculate the fall — 3mm per metre of run. Mark the low point at the outlet position. Run a string line between the two points to guide bracket placement.

Step 3: Fix the Outlet

Fix the running outlet at the low point of the run first — this is the most critical position. Screw it to the fascia board using the string line as your guide. Ensure it is aligned with the planned downpipe route below.

Step 4: Fix Brackets

Fix the bracket at the highest point of the run. Then space remaining brackets evenly at a maximum of 1m apart along the string line. Place additional brackets within 150mm of any joints, angles or stop ends. Pre-drill the fascia if the timber is hard or old.

Step 5: Cut and Fit Gutter Lengths

Measure each section and cut with a hacksaw. Deburr the cut end with a file. Clip gutter lengths into the brackets — most PVC systems snap into place. Join lengths using union clips, ensuring gutter ends meet at the internal line marked on the union. Leave expansion gaps as marked on the fittings (typically 6-10mm).

Step 6: Fit Stop Ends and Angles

Push stop ends onto the open ends of the gutter run. Fit angle pieces at corners, using the same expansion gap markings. Check that all fittings clip securely and sit level with the fall line.

Step 7: Install the Downpipe

Fit offset bends (typically two 112.5° bends with a short connecting pipe) to bring the downpipe back to the wall face from the gutter outlet. Then run the downpipe straight down the wall, fixing with pipe clips at 1.8m intervals (maximum 2m). Each clip needs a wall plug and screw into the masonry.

Step 8: Fit the Shoe or Connect to Drain

At the bottom of the downpipe, fit a rainwater shoe to direct water into the gulley. Position the shoe about 25mm above the gulley grate. If connecting directly to an underground drain, use a downpipe adaptor and flexible connector.

Step 9: Test the System

Pour water into the gutter at the high end using a bucket or hose. Watch it flow smoothly towards the outlet and down the downpipe. Check for leaks at every joint and fitting. Adjust any brackets or fittings as needed.

Step 10: Final Checks

Step back and check the gutter line from ground level — it should look straight and consistent. Ensure all clips are fully engaged and brackets are secure. Clear any debris from the gutter and fit a leaf guard if near trees.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• No fall or wrong fall: Without a consistent fall towards the outlet, water pools and overflows. Always use a string line and check with a spirit level.
• Gutter too low: If the gutter sits too far below the roof edge, water overshoots in heavy rain. The back edge of the gutter should tuck just under the tile overhang.
• No expansion gaps: PVC expands in heat. Without expansion gaps at joints, gutters buckle and leak. Follow the markings on union joints.
• Too few brackets: Sagging gutters hold standing water and eventually fail. Space brackets at 1m maximum.
• Fixing to rotten fascia: Brackets will pull out of soft, rotten timber. Replace damaged fascia first.

Cost Estimate (2026 UK Prices)

Use our Gutter Sizing Calculator and Gutter Bracket Calculator for exact quantities for your project.