How to Install Skirting Boards — Step-by-Step UK Guide

What You'll Need

Before You Start

• Remove old skirting boards carefully using a pry bar and hammer. Protect the plaster behind with a piece of scrap board.
• Check the walls are reasonably flat and the floor is level. Fill any large holes in the plaster.
• Use our Skirting Board Calculator to work out the total length of skirting needed including waste allowance for cuts.
• If fitting on plasterboard walls, locate the studs — screws or nails hold much better in studs than in board alone.
• Paint or prime the skirting before fitting — it is much easier on a flat surface than once fitted to the wall.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Plan Your Cuts

Walk around the room and number each piece of skirting. Note which ends need mitres (external corners), scribed joints (internal corners) or square cuts (door frames). Work out the most efficient way to cut from standard lengths to minimise waste.

Step 2: Cut and Fit the Longest Wall First

Start with the longest wall. Cut the piece to length with square cuts at each end (if both ends meet an internal corner). The adjacent pieces will be scribed to fit over these square ends.

Step 3: Scribe Internal Corners

For internal corners, cut the second piece at a 45-degree mitre (as if cutting an external mitre). Then use a coping saw to cut along the profile line — following the contour of the moulding. Angle the saw slightly backwards to create a back-cut. Test-fit and sand or file as needed until it sits tightly against the square-cut piece.

Step 4: Cut External Corners

For external corners (e.g., chimney breasts), cut both pieces at 45-degree mitres using a mitre saw. Test-fit and adjust. External mitres should be pinned and glued — apply PVA to both mitre faces before fixing. Pin through the mitre from one side to lock them together.

Step 5: Fix the Skirting

Apply a zigzag bead of grab adhesive to the back of the board. Press firmly against the wall. For extra security, drive masonry nails or screws at 600mm centres. On plasterboard walls, fix into the studs. Punch nail heads below the surface with a nail punch.

Step 6: Fill and Caulk

Fill nail holes with wood filler. Run a bead of decorators caulk along the top edge where the skirting meets the wall — this hides any small gaps caused by uneven plaster. Smooth the caulk with a wet finger. Fill any mitre joints with fine wood filler.

Step 7: Paint

Once the filler and caulk are dry, sand smooth. Touch up the primer on any bare areas. Apply two coats of satinwood or gloss paint using a small roller for the flat face and a brush for the profile. Use masking tape along the floor edge for a clean line.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Butt joints at internal corners: Simple butt joints open up as timber dries. Always use scribed (coped) joints for internal corners.
• Not back-cutting: When coping internal corners, angle the saw slightly backward so only the front edge makes contact. This gives a tighter fit.
• Measuring tight: Cut skirting 1-2mm longer than the measured length and spring it into place. This ensures a tight fit. If it is too short, there is no fix.
• Skipping the caulk: Even perfectly plastered walls have slight undulations. A thin bead of caulk along the top makes the joint disappear.
• Not priming MDF cut edges: MDF absorbs moisture through cut edges. Seal all cuts with primer or PVA before painting.

Cost Estimate (2026 UK Prices)

Use our Skirting Board Calculator for exact lengths and quantities.