How to Lay a Patio — Step-by-Step UK Guide
Complete guide to laying a patio in the UK, from excavation and sub-base preparation through to jointing and finishing.
What You'll Need
Tools
- Spade and pickaxe
- Wheelbarrow
- Whacker plate compactor (hire)
- Spirit level (1200mm)
- String line and pegs
- Rubber mallet
- Brick bolster and lump hammer or angle grinder with diamond blade
- Cement mixer or mixing spot
- Pointing trowel and bucket trowel
- Tape measure
- Knee pads
Materials
- Paving slabs (allow 5% extra for cuts and breakages)
- Type 1 MOT sub-base — 100mm compacted depth
- Sharp sand
- Cement (OPC)
- Jointing compound or kiln-dried sand
- Weed membrane (optional, under sub-base)
- Edging restraints or haunching mortar
Before You Start
- Check for underground services — use a CAT scanner or contact your utility providers. This is especially important near the house where gas, water, electric and drainage pipes run.
- Ensure the finished patio level is at least 150mm below the damp-proof course (DPC) of your house. Building up against the DPC causes damp problems.
- Plan your drainage fall — the patio must slope away from the house at a minimum of 1:60.
- Order materials in advance. Use our Paving Slab Calculator to work out slab quantities and our Type 1 Sub-Base Calculator for aggregate volumes.
- Check the weather forecast — avoid laying slabs in rain, frost or extreme heat.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Mark Out and Excavate
Mark out your patio area using string lines and pegs. Add 100mm to each side for edge haunching. Excavate to a depth of 200-250mm below your desired finished level (100mm sub-base + 30-40mm mortar bed + slab thickness). Keep the spoil — you may need it for backfilling edges.
Step 2: Compact the Sub-Grade
Once excavated, compact the exposed earth using a whacker plate. This prevents future settlement. If the ground is soft clay, lay a geotextile membrane before adding sub-base.
Step 3: Lay the Sub-Base
Spread Type 1 MOT crushed stone to a depth of approximately 125mm (it compacts to about 100mm). Compact in layers using the whacker plate — do not try to compact more than 75mm at once. Check levels regularly with a spirit level.
Step 4: Set Up Guide Lines
Set up string lines at the finished slab height. Establish your drainage fall (1:60 minimum away from the house). Use datum pegs at each corner and check with a spirit level.
Step 5: Mix the Mortar Bed
Mix a semi-dry mortar at a ratio of 4:1 (4 parts sharp sand to 1 part cement). The consistency should hold its shape when squeezed — not too wet. Spread a full mortar bed about 40mm thick for each slab. Do not use the five-dot method — a full bed gives much better support and prevents rocking.
Step 6: Lay the Slabs
Start from one corner, working away from the house. Place each slab onto the mortar bed and tap down with a rubber mallet until level with your string line. Leave 8-12mm gaps between slabs for jointing. Check each slab is level in both directions and maintains the drainage fall. Use spacers for consistent joint widths.
Step 7: Cut Edge Slabs
Mark cuts with a pencil and straight edge. Use an angle grinder with a diamond blade for clean cuts. Always wear safety goggles, ear defenders and a dust mask when cutting. Score the line first, then cut through in passes.
Step 8: Haunch the Edges
Mix a stronger mortar (3:1) and haunch the outside edges of the patio. The haunch should be triangular in profile, rising from the sub-base to about two-thirds up the edge of the slab. This prevents lateral movement.
Step 9: Joint the Slabs
Wait at least 24 hours before jointing. Use a resin-based jointing compound (e.g. Geofix or Nexus ProJoint) for the best results — it resists weeds and ants. Alternatively, use a 3:1 sand-cement dry mix brushed into joints and misted with water. Clean any excess off the slab faces immediately.
Step 10: Clean and Cure
Brush off any mortar residue. Allow 48-72 hours before walking on the patio. Keep off heavy furniture for a week. If rain is forecast before the mortar has set, cover with tarpaulin.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Skipping the sub-base: Laying slabs directly on soil or sand leads to sinking and uneven surfaces within a year.
- Not compacting properly: Insufficient compaction causes differential settlement and cracked slabs.
- Forgetting the drainage fall: Water pooling against your house causes damp. Always slope away at 1:60.
- Using the five-dot method: Placing five blobs of mortar under each slab leaves voids that fill with water and freeze in winter, cracking slabs.
- Building above the DPC: The finished patio must be at least 150mm below the damp-proof course.
- Not checking levels as you go: Check every slab — it is much harder to correct once the mortar has gone off.
Cost Estimate (2026 UK Prices)
| Item | Typical Cost |
|---|---|
| Paving slabs (budget concrete, per m²) | £20-£35 |
| Paving slabs (natural stone, per m²) | £40-£80 |
| Paving slabs (porcelain, per m²) | £35-£70 |
| Type 1 MOT sub-base (per tonne) | £30-£45 |
| Sharp sand (per tonne) | £40-£55 |
| Cement (25kg bag) | £5-£7 |
| Jointing compound (15kg tub) | £25-£40 |
| Whacker plate hire (per day) | £35-£50 |
| Total for a 15m² patio (DIY) | £600-£1,500 |
Use our Paving Slab Calculator, Type 1 Sub-Base Calculator and Mortar Calculator for exact quantities for your project.
How We Calculate This
Frequently Asked Questions
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Last updated: April 2026
All calculations are estimates. Verify with your supplier.
