How to Lay Artificial Grass

Tools and Materials

Before You Start

• Check for underground services (gas, water, electric, drainage) before excavating — use a CAT scanner or check service plans
• Plan the grass roll direction so the pile faces toward the main viewing point (usually the house)
• Measure the area carefully and plan seam positions to minimise waste
• Allow the grass rolls to acclimatise flat for at least 2 hours before laying
• Choose a dry day for installation — adhesive will not bond on wet surfaces

Step-by-Step Installation

1. Step 1 — Excavate the area. Remove existing turf, topsoil, and organic matter to a depth of 75-100 mm. Create a slight fall (1:80 minimum) away from buildings for drainage. Remove any large stones or roots.
2. Step 2 — Lay sub-base (if required). On clay or poorly draining soils, spread 25-50 mm of Type 1 MOT sub-base and compact thoroughly with a whacker plate. Make multiple passes in different directions until the surface is firm and level.
3. Step 3 — Spread and level sharp sand. Apply 25-30 mm of sharp sand or granite dust over the compacted area. Level using a straight edge or screeding rails. Compact lightly with the whacker plate, then re-level. The finished surface must be smooth and even.
4. Step 4 — Lay weed membrane. Roll out heavy-duty weed membrane across the entire area. Overlap sheets by 100 mm minimum. Secure with galvanised membrane pegs every 300 mm along edges and joins. Trim to fit around obstacles.
5. Step 5 — Roll out artificial grass. Unroll the grass along the longest dimension. Allow it to settle for 1-2 hours. Trim roughly to shape, leaving 50 mm excess on all edges. Ensure pile direction is consistent across all pieces.
6. Step 6 — Trim to fit. Using a sharp Stanley knife, trim the grass to the exact perimeter. Cut from the back to avoid damaging the pile. Around curved edges, make small relief cuts to allow the grass to follow the contour.
7. Step 7 — Join seams. Where two pieces meet, fold back both edges and lay joining tape centrally along the seam. Apply adhesive in a zigzag pattern along the tape. Press both edges down firmly and ensure the join is tight with no gaps or overlapping.
8. Step 8 — Secure edges. Fix the grass perimeter using 150 mm galvanised nails or ground stakes at 200-300 mm centres. Nail through the grass into the sub-base at a slight inward angle. Along hard edges (paving, edging boards), use outdoor adhesive.
9. Step 9 — Apply infill (optional). Brush kiln-dried silica sand into the grass at a rate of approximately 4-6 kg/m². This helps the pile stand upright, adds weight to prevent movement, and provides a more natural feel. Brush in using a stiff broom.
10. Step 10 — Final brush. Use a stiff bristle broom or power brush to lift the pile and give a natural appearance. Brush against the pile direction for the best finish.

Common Mistakes

• Not excavating deep enough — leads to the finished surface being too high against paths and edgings
• Poor compaction — causes dips and unevenness as the ground settles
• Joining pieces with different pile directions — creates a visible seam
• Skipping weed membrane — weeds will grow through drainage holes within months
• Cutting from the front — damages the pile fibres, always cut from the back
• Not allowing for expansion — artificial grass expands in heat, so do not stretch it tight

Cost Estimate (2026)

Related Calculators

Use the Artificial Grass Calculator to calculate exact quantities, or the Weed Membrane Calculator for membrane coverage.