How to Lay Block Paving
Complete guide to laying block paving for driveways and patios, including excavation, sub-base, edge restraint, laying patterns, and kiln-dried sand.
Tools and Materials
Tools Required
- Mini digger or spade (hire digger for large areas: £150-200/day)
- Whacker plate compactor (hire: £40-60/day)
- Block splitter or angle grinder with diamond blade
- Spirit level and long straight edge
- Screeding rails (25 mm or 32 mm pipe)
- Rubber mallet
- String line and pegs
- PPE: ear defenders, safety glasses, dust mask, gloves
Materials Required
- Block pavers (add 5-10% for cuts/waste)
- Type 1 MOT sub-base
- Sharp sand (for screeding layer)
- Kiln-dried jointing sand
- Concrete edging kerbs
- Concrete for edging haunch
- Geotextile membrane (optional)
Before You Start
- Check for underground services — use a CAT scanner and check service plans
- Plan falls for drainage: minimum 1:60 away from buildings
- Consider permeable paving if the area exceeds 5 m² at the front of the property
- Order blocks from the same batch to ensure colour consistency
- Set datum levels with pegs and string before excavating
Step-by-Step Installation
- Step 1 — Excavate. Dig to the required depth ensuring the correct falls. Remove all organic matter and soft spots. Fill any soft areas with Type 1 and compact.
- Step 2 — Lay geotextile membrane (optional). On soft or clay ground, lay geotextile membrane to prevent sub-base migration into the subsoil.
- Step 3 — Spread and compact sub-base. Add Type 1 MOT in layers of no more than 75 mm, compacting each layer thoroughly with a whacker plate. Build up to the required depth (150 mm patio, 200 mm+ driveway). Check levels frequently.
- Step 4 — Install edge restraints. Bed concrete edging kerbs on a C20 concrete haunch. Set to the finished paving level minus the block thickness. Allow the concrete to set for 24 hours before laying pavers.
- Step 5 — Screed the sand bed. Lay screeding rails on the compacted sub-base and spread sharp sand between them. Draw a straight edge across the rails to create a smooth, even bed at the correct depth (30-40 mm). Remove the rails and fill the voids.
- Step 6 — Lay the blocks. Start from a 90° corner or fixed edge. Work forwards, kneeling on the laid pavers (never on the sand bed). Maintain 2-3 mm gaps between blocks. Check alignment every few rows with a string line.
- Step 7 — Cut edge blocks. Mark and cut edge blocks with a block splitter or angle grinder. Wear ear defenders, safety glasses, and a dust mask when cutting. Aim for cuts no smaller than one-third of a full block.
- Step 8 — Vibrate and joint. Spread kiln-dried sand over the surface and vibrate with a plate compactor fitted with a rubber mat (to prevent scuffing). This drives the sand into the joints and settles the blocks. Top up the sand and repeat 2-3 times.
Common Mistakes
- Inadequate sub-base compaction — the most common cause of sinking and unevenness
- No edge restraints — paving will spread apart within months
- Using building sand instead of kiln-dried for joints — it holds moisture and encourages weed growth
- Laying blocks too tight together — blocks expand in heat and will crack if there is no joint gap
- Insufficient falls — leads to puddles and standing water
- Mixing blocks from different pallets — shuffle blocks from 3-4 packs to blend colour variation
Cost Estimate (2026)
| Item | Typical Cost |
|---|---|
| Block pavers (standard) | £15-35 per m² |
| Type 1 MOT sub-base | £55-80 per bulk bag |
| Sharp sand | £50-70 per bulk bag |
| Edging kerbs | £3-6 per metre |
| Whacker plate hire | £40-60 per day |
| Total (30 m² driveway, DIY) | £1,200-2,500 |
Related Calculators
Use the Block Paving Calculator for paver quantities, and the Type 1 Sub-Base Calculator for sub-base volumes.
How We Calculate This
Frequently Asked Questions
Related Calculators
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Last updated: April 2026
All calculations are estimates. Verify with your supplier.
