How to Lay Laminate Flooring — Step-by-Step UK Guide

What You'll Need

Before You Start

• Check the subfloor is level — use a 2m straight edge. Any dips or high spots greater than 3mm in a 1m span must be levelled. Use self-levelling compound on concrete or plywood overlay on timber subfloors.
• Concrete subfloors must be dry — test with a moisture meter or tape a polythene sheet to the floor for 48 hours. If moisture appears, the slab needs a DPM.
• Remove existing skirting boards if you plan to refit them over the laminate. Alternatively, leave them in place and use scotia beading to cover the expansion gap.
• Undercut door frames with a multi-tool or undercut saw so the laminate slides under them for a neat finish.
• Use our Laminate Flooring Calculator and Carpet Calculator to work out quantities.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Acclimatise the Laminate

Store unopened packs flat in the room for at least 48 hours. Keep the room at normal temperature (18-22°C). Do not store packs in a garage or shed — temperature and humidity will be wrong.

Step 2: Lay the DPM (Concrete Subfloors)

On concrete subfloors, roll out a polythene DPM sheet across the entire floor, overlapping sheets by 200mm and taping the joins. Turn up the edges 50mm against the walls. This prevents moisture wicking up through the concrete and damaging the laminate.

Step 3: Lay the Underlay

Roll out underlay across the floor, butting sheets together (do not overlap). Tape joins with the underlay manufacturer tape. On timber subfloors, staple the underlay down if needed to prevent movement. Lay only what you need for the day — walking on exposed underlay can tear it.

Step 4: Plan the First Row

Measure the room width and divide by the board width to work out how many rows you need. If the last row would be less than 50mm wide, reduce the width of the first row so both first and last rows are a reasonable width. This looks much better than having a tiny sliver at one end.

Step 5: Lay the First Row

Start in the left-hand corner of the room, with the tongue side of the board facing the wall. Place 10mm spacer wedges between the board and the wall. Click boards together end-to-end along the first row. Cut the last board to length, leaving a 10mm gap at the wall.

Step 6: Start the Second Row

Use the offcut from the first row to start the second row (provided it is at least 300mm long). This staggers the joints, which looks better and is structurally stronger. Angle the long edge of the board into the first row at about 20° and press down to click into place. Then click the end joint.

Step 7: Continue Row by Row

Work across the room row by row, clicking long edges first, then end joints. Maintain the 10mm expansion gap at all walls using spacer wedges. Stagger end joints by at least 300mm between adjacent rows. Use a tapping block and rubber mallet to close any small gaps — never hit the laminate directly.

Step 8: Fit Around Pipes

Mark the pipe centre on the board, drill a hole 10mm larger than the pipe diameter and cut a slot from the board edge to the hole. Slot the board around the pipe and glue the cut piece back in place behind the pipe. Fit a pipe rosette cover for a neat finish.

Step 9: Lay the Last Row

Measure the gap at multiple points (walls are rarely straight), deduct 10mm for the expansion gap and rip the boards to width using a circular saw or jigsaw. Use a pull bar to click the last row into place — there is not enough room for a tapping block against the wall.

Step 10: Fit Skirting and Thresholds

Remove spacer wedges. Refit skirting boards or pin scotia beading to cover the expansion gap — fix to the wall, not to the floor. The floor must be free to move. Fit transition strips at doorways using the track-and-clip method. Fit pipe rosettes around any exposed pipes.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• No expansion gap: Without a 10mm gap at every wall, pipe and fixed object, the floor will buckle when it expands. This is the single most common laminate failure.
• Skipping acclimatisation: Laying cold laminate straight from the pack leads to expansion after installation, causing buckling and peaking at joints.
• No DPM on concrete: Moisture from a concrete slab will swell and destroy laminate from below. Always use a DPM.
• Fixing skirting to the floor: Skirting must be fixed to the wall. If pinned through the laminate, the floor cannot expand and will buckle.
• Uneven subfloor: Bumps and dips telegraph through the laminate, causing click joints to separate and boards to rock. Level the subfloor first.

Cost Estimate (2026 UK Prices)

Use our Laminate Flooring Calculator and Carpet Calculator for exact quantities for your project.