How to Plasterboard a Room — Step-by-Step UK Guide

What You'll Need

Before You Start

• Check the walls for damp. Do not board over a damp wall — fix the cause first.
• Run any electrical cables or plumbing pipes before boarding. Once the boards are up, routing cables is much harder.
• Use our Plasterboard Calculator for board quantities, Dot and Dab Calculator for adhesive quantities, and Dry Lining Calculator for tape and filler.
• Remove old loose plaster from masonry walls if dot-and-dabbing — the adhesive needs a solid background to grip.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Prepare the Walls

Brush down masonry walls to remove loose material. Apply PVA diluted 1:5 with water to seal dusty surfaces — this helps the adhesive bond. For stud walls, check that all studs are straight and in the same plane.

Step 2: Apply Dabs (Dot-and-Dab Method)

Mix drywall adhesive (e.g., British Gypsum Gyproc Dri-Wall) to a thick, creamy consistency. Apply dabs approximately 50-75mm in diameter at 300mm vertical centres in vertical rows at 400mm horizontal centres. Apply a continuous ribbon of adhesive around the board perimeter and around any openings (doors, windows). The dabs should be about 25mm thick.

Step 3: Position the Board

Lift the board using a plasterboard lifter (foot lever) to raise it 10-15mm off the floor. Press the board firmly against the dabs. Use a spirit level and straight edge to check the board is plumb and flat. Tap gently with a rubber mallet to adjust. Hold or prop the board until the adhesive grips (usually 10-15 minutes).

Step 4: Cut Boards to Fit

To cut plasterboard: score the ivory face deeply with a Stanley knife along a straight edge. Snap the board along the score line. Cut through the paper on the back with the knife. For cutouts (sockets, pipes), mark the position, drill a starter hole and cut with a drywall saw. Always measure from the board edge, not from the wall, as walls are rarely perfectly straight.

Step 5: Board the Whole Room

Work around the room, fitting boards with 3mm gaps between them. Stagger the board joints so they do not line up in a continuous vertical or horizontal line. Board walls before the ceiling. When boarding a ceiling, screw into every joist at 150mm centres.

Step 6: Tape the Joints

Apply a thin bed of jointing compound over each joint using a 150mm taping knife. Press paper jointing tape into the compound while it is still wet. Run the knife over the tape to squeeze out excess compound and remove air bubbles. Allow to dry (usually overnight).

Step 7: Apply Finishing Coats

Apply a second coat of jointing compound using a 250mm knife, feathering the edges wider than the tape. Allow to dry. Sand lightly. Apply a third coat if needed, feathering even wider. The goal is a seamless transition from the joint to the board face. Fill all screw heads with compound.

Step 8: Finish Internal and External Corners

For internal corners, fold paper tape along its crease and bed it into compound in the corner. For external corners, fix metal or paper-faced corner bead with adhesive or screws, then skim with compound. Sand smooth once dry.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Boards too tight together: Leave a 3mm gap between boards for the jointing compound. Boards butted tightly together crack as they expand.
• Dabs too small or too far apart: Insufficient adhesive means boards pop off the wall. Follow the spacing guidelines exactly.
• Driving screws too deep: The screw should dimple the paper slightly but not break through it. Broken paper means the screw has no holding power. Use a drywall screw gun with a depth stop.
• Not staggering joints: Continuous joints across multiple boards create a weak line that cracks. Always stagger by at least 600mm.
• Skipping the PVA seal: Dusty masonry prevents adhesive bonding. Always seal first.

Cost Estimate (2026 UK Prices)

Use our Plasterboard Calculator, Dot and Dab Calculator and Dry Lining Calculator for exact material lists.