How to Tile a Roof — Step-by-Step UK Guide

What You'll Need

Before You Start

• Safety first: Working at height is the biggest killer in UK construction. Ensure full scaffolding with edge protection is in place. Never work on a wet or icy roof. Wear a harness with a roof anchor where appropriate.
• Inspect the roof structure — check rafters, ridge board and purlins for rot, woodworm or damage. Replace any defective timbers before battening.
• Use our Roof Tile Calculator to work out tile quantities and our Felt and Batten Calculator for membrane and batten lengths.
• Check the weather forecast — you need several dry days. Have tarpaulins ready in case of unexpected rain.
• Notify neighbours and consider party wall implications if you share a roof line.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Strip the Old Roof

Working from the ridge down, remove old ridge tiles, tiles, battens and felt. Lower materials to ground level using a chute or hoist — never throw tiles from a roof. Inspect all rafters and repair or replace as needed.

Step 2: Lay Breathable Membrane

Starting at the eaves, roll out breathable roofing membrane horizontally across the rafters. Pull the membrane taut — breathable membranes must not be draped (draping is only for non-breathable bituminous felt per BS 5534). Overlap each course by 150mm and tape the joints. The membrane must lap over the eaves tilting fillet and into the gutter.

Step 3: Fix Counter-Battens (if required)

For a fully ventilated warm roof or when using some tile types, fix 25×38mm counter-battens vertically up each rafter over the membrane. This creates a ventilation gap. Some breathable membranes with high vapour permeability allow you to omit counter-battens — check the product specification.

Step 4: Set Out and Fix Tile Battens

Calculate your tile gauge from the manufacturer data. Mark the gauge on both verge rafters using a tape measure, starting from the eaves. Snap a chalk line across for each row. Fix 25×50mm treated battens with 65mm nails, two nails per rafter crossing. The eaves batten is raised using a fascia-height packer to tilt the first course correctly.

Step 5: Fit Eaves and Verge Details

Install eaves ventilation trays or comb fillers at the eaves. Fit any dry verge systems or undercloak at the verge edges. These prevent wind-driven rain from entering under the tiles.

Step 6: Lay the Tiles

Start at the bottom right corner (for a right-hand-hung interlocking tile). Hang the first tile on the eaves batten, ensuring it overhangs the fascia by 50mm and sits into the gutter. Work left along the eaves course, then move up row by row. Nail or clip every tile as required by BS 5534.

Step 7: Cut Tiles at Verges and Abutments

Mark and cut tiles using an angle grinder with a diamond blade. Always cut on a stable surface, not on the roof. Wear full PPE — goggles, ear defenders and dust mask. Tile-and-a-half tiles are available for some ranges to reduce verge cutting.

Step 8: Flash Abutments and Chimneys

Fit lead stepped flashings at wall abutments, ensuring each step is chased into the mortar joint and sealed with lead sealant. Chimney flashings include a back gutter, stepped flashings and a front apron. Dress lead carefully over tile profiles. Use Code 4 lead minimum.

Step 9: Fit the Ridge

A dry ridge system is now standard practice and required under BS 5534. Fix the ridge batten, attach ridge brackets at each rafter position, and clip or screw the ridge tiles in place with a continuous roll of ventilated ridge seal beneath. For a mortar bedded ridge (older method), bed ridge tiles on a 3:1 sand-cement mortar and point neatly.

Step 10: Final Checks

Walk the roof (carefully) and check every tile is secure and correctly aligned. Ensure all fixings are driven home. Check flashings are dressed correctly. Clear gutters of debris. Inspect from ground level to confirm straight lines and consistent appearance.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Incorrect gauge: If the gauge is wrong, tiles will not interlock properly and the roof will leak. Always calculate from the tile manufacturer data.
• Insufficient fixings: BS 5534 requires mechanical fixing of all tiles. Do not rely on gravity alone — UK wind loads will lift unfixed tiles.
• Poor membrane laps: Insufficient overlaps in the breathable membrane allow wind-driven rain to penetrate. Maintain 150mm minimum laps.
• Mortar-bedded ridges: Traditional mortar ridges crack and fail. Dry ridge systems are required under current standards and last much longer.
• Ignoring ventilation: A roof must be ventilated to prevent condensation. Fit ventilation tiles at eaves and ridge or use a high-level/low-level system.

Cost Estimate (2026 UK Prices)

Use our Roof Tile Calculator and Felt and Batten Calculator for exact quantities for your project.