How to Tile a Shower Wall — Step-by-Step UK Guide

What You'll Need

Before You Start

• Turn off the water supply if you are working around exposed pipework or replacing a shower valve.
• Strip back to the studs or solid wall. Remove all old tiles, adhesive and damaged plasterboard.
• Check that timber studs are straight and true — pack out any low spots with plywood shims so the backer board sits flat.
• Use our Wall Tile Calculator to work out the number of tiles needed and plan your layout.
• Ensure the shower tray is level and correctly installed before tiling the walls — tiles should overlap the tray upstand.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Fix Backer Board

Cut cement backer board to size using a score-and-snap knife or a jigsaw with a masonry blade. Apply flexible adhesive to the studs, then fix the board with backer board screws at 300mm centres. Stagger joints and leave a 3mm gap between boards — fill gaps with flexible adhesive and embed mesh tape.

Step 2: Tank the Shower Area

Apply the first coat of liquid tanking membrane over the entire shower area with a brush or roller. Bed tanking tape into all internal corners, board joints and around pipe penetrations while the first coat is still wet. Allow to dry (2-4 hours), then apply the second coat. Extend the membrane at least 300mm beyond where the shower screen will sit. Use our Wet Room Tanking Calculator to estimate membrane quantities.

Step 3: Plan Your Tile Layout

Dry-lay a row of tiles to plan the layout. Centre the tiles on the back wall of the shower so cuts are equal at each side. Mark a horizontal datum line at the height of one full tile above the shower tray. The bottom row will be cut to fit and tiled last.

Step 4: Fix a Temporary Batten

Screw a straight timber batten along your datum line to support the first row of tiles. This ensures a perfectly level start. You will remove it once the adhesive has cured.

Step 5: Apply Adhesive and Set Tiles

Spread flexible tile adhesive onto the backer board using a notched trowel — work in areas of about 0.5m² at a time. For tiles larger than 300×300mm, also back-butter the tile to ensure full adhesive coverage. Press each tile into the adhesive with a slight twist and insert spacers. Check levels frequently.

Step 6: Cut and Fit Around Pipework

Use a diamond hole cutter on a drill at low speed with water lubrication for pipe holes. Mark the hole position carefully by measuring from adjacent tiles. For the shower valve, you may need a larger hole cutter (50-65mm). Cut L-shapes by scoring with a tile cutter and nibbling with nippers.

Step 7: Tile the Bottom Row

After 24 hours, remove the batten and tile the bottom row. Cut tiles to fit, leaving a 3-5mm gap above the shower tray for silicone. This gap allows for movement and provides a waterproof seal.

Step 8: Grout

Mix waterproof grout and apply with a grout float at 45° to the tile surface. Press firmly into all joints, working diagonally. Wipe off excess with a damp sponge after 15-20 minutes. Do not grout internal corners or the tile-to-tray joint — these are silicone joints.

Step 9: Apply Silicone

After the grout has cured for 24 hours, apply mould-resistant sanitary silicone to all internal corners, the tile-to-tray joint and around pipe penetrations. Use masking tape for clean lines and smooth with a finishing tool. Remove tape immediately.

Step 10: Final Checks

Inspect all joints for gaps. Polish grout haze off tiles with a dry cloth. Refit the shower screen, valve covers and any accessories. Allow silicone to cure for 24 hours before using the shower.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using standard plasterboard: It will absorb moisture and fail within months. Always use cement backer board in shower areas.
• Incomplete tanking: The tanking membrane must be continuous with no gaps. Pay special attention to corners, joints and pipe penetrations.
• Voids behind tiles: Air pockets behind tiles in a shower area will harbour moisture and eventually cause tiles to blow off. Back-butter large tiles for 100% coverage.
• Grouting movement joints: Internal corners and the tile-to-tray joint must be silicone. Grout will crack.
• Not allowing cure time: Rushing to use the shower before adhesive and silicone have fully cured causes early failure.

Cost Estimate (2026 UK Prices)

Use our Wall Tile Calculator and Wet Room Tanking Calculator for exact quantities for your project.