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Solid Wood Flooring Calculator — Boards, Fixing & Acclimatisation
Calculate solid wood T&G board count, secret nail spacing or adhesive for concrete, and acclimatisation time by species.
Longest dimension of the room
Shortest dimension of the room
Room not a simple rectangle? An L-shaped room is just two rectangles: measure each one wall to wall and add it as a section. Use three sections for a T or U shape. The calculator adds every section together.
Common: 100–150mm
One fixing per board at each joist — set to your joist centres (typically 350–400mm; default 400mm)
Typical solid-wood board lengths: 1200-2400mm (default 1800mm)
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How We Calculate This
This calculator determines board count, fixing requirements and acclimatisation time for solid wood flooring based on species and installation method.
For an L-shaped room, press Add section and enter each rectangle as its own section. Boards, rows and fixings are worked out per section and then added together, so the estimate covers the extra cuts where the sections meet and never under-orders. Use three sections for a T or U shape.
The formula
Board count = (Floor area × (1 + Waste %)) ÷ (Board width × Board length)
Secret nails = Board rows × (Room length ÷ Joist/nail spacing) — one fixing per board into each joist or batten (typically ~350–400mm centres).
Adhesive ≈ Floor area × ~1.0 kg/m² (indicative). Wood-floor adhesive is notch- and thickness-dependent, typically ~0.8–1.3 kg/m² — use the rate on your adhesive datasheet.
Acclimatisation days are a typical guide only. BS 8201:2011 treats acclimatisation as reaching equilibrium moisture content (EMC) with the room, confirmed with a moisture meter — not a fixed number of days.
Frequently Asked Questions
Acclimatisation is not really a fixed number of days — BS 8201:2011 defines it as the flooring reaching equilibrium moisture content (EMC) with the room it will be laid in. As a typical guide that takes 7–14 days (e.g. ~14 for oak or walnut, ~7 for pine), but the only reliable test is a moisture meter: the boards should sit within roughly 2% of the room’s in-service moisture content (around 8% ±2%) before fitting. Open the packs and stack with spacers so air can circulate, and keep the room at normal lived-in temperature and humidity throughout.
Yes, using a flexible (elastic) wood-flooring adhesive. Consumption depends on the trowel notch and board thickness — typically about 0.8–1.3 kg/m² for solid boards (for example SikaBond MS Wood Floor is a minimum of 0.6 kg/m², SikaBond-5500 S 0.95–1.25 kg/m²), so always follow the rate and trowel stated on your adhesive datasheet. The concrete must be dry — for solid timber that means a hygrometer (insulated-hood) reading of ≤65% RH per BS 8201:2011 Annex A, the stricter limit wood needs because it is so moisture-sensitive (the ≤75% RH figure is for other, less sensitive floorcoverings). It must also be flat (±3mm over 3m) and have a working DPM. Alternatively, fix to plywood battens with a DPM underneath.
Secret nailing involves driving a fixing at 45° through the tongue of each board into the joist or subfloor below; the groove of the next board hides the fixing head. The rule is one fixing per board into every joist or batten — joists are normally at ~350–400mm centres, so for boards up to about 160mm wide one fixing per joist is enough. (Boards wider than ~85mm cover that are face/top-nailed instead need two fixings per joist, but that is a different, visible method.)
Split the room into rectangles and enter each one as its own section using the Add section button; the calculator adds the sections together for you. Board counts and board rows are worked out per section and rounded up before being added, which covers the extra cuts where rows stop and restart at the junction between sections and never under-orders. Secret nail counts use each section's own rows and run length, while adhesive and underlay are worked out from the combined floor area. Use three sections for a T or U shaped room.
Popular widths for solid wood are 100–150mm. Wider boards (150mm+) are more prone to cupping and require more careful moisture management. Narrow boards are more stable and traditional.
Yes. Leave a 12–15mm expansion gap around all walls, pipes and fixed objects. Solid wood expands more than engineered wood, especially across the grain. Cover gaps with skirting or scotia.
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Last updated: March 2026
Verified against UK standards · estimates only, confirm with your supplier.