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Building a Garden Wall

A garden wall is a whole masonry project in miniature: it has foundations, a damp-proof course, bonding, movement joints and a weathering detail on top, and it fails in exactly the same ways a house wall does when any of them is skipped. It is also one of the few walls you can legally build without any approval at all, provided it stays within the permitted development limits.

This page is a working template for the whole job: the task order, what you will be ordering, the height and boundary rules, and the calculator that serves each step. The two things that most often go wrong are decided before the first brick: a foundation too shallow for the ground, and a wall started before anyone checked the height rules for its position.

Work in this order

  1. Check the rules before you order a brick

    Walls, fences and gates have height limits under permitted development, and the limit is lower where the wall fronts a highway: check your case with the Fence Height Calculator (it covers walls) or read the quick answer on maximum fence and wall heights. Conservation areas and listed buildings change the picture. If the wall sits on or at a shared boundary, check the Party Wall Checker before starting.

  2. Set out and dig the foundation trench

    Check for underground services before digging, then set the wall line out with pegs and string. The trench is wider than the wall and its depth depends on the wall height and the ground: clay soils need deeper foundations to avoid heave. Size the concrete with the Foundation Calculator, and the dig itself with the Groundwork Excavation Calculator.

  3. Pour the concrete and let it cure

    The foundation is poured, levelled and left to cure before any bricks are laid on it. Mix quantities come from the Concrete Mix Calculator, with the method in our guide to mixing concrete and the standard mixes in the Concrete Mix Ratios reference.

  4. Dry-lay the first course, then bed the DPC in

    Laying the first course without mortar shows you the spacing and any cuts before you commit. A damp-proof course goes in low in the wall, above finished ground level, to stop moisture rising through the masonry: quantities from the DPC Calculator, materials in the UK DPC Specifications reference, and the concept in the glossary.

  5. Corners first, then fill between, in steady lifts

    Corners are built up first and checked for plumb, then a line is stretched between them and each course is laid to the line with consistent joints. Do not race the mortar: too many courses in one session squeezes the joints before they have stiffened. Quantities come from the Brick Calculator or Block Calculator plus the Mortar Calculator. Freestanding walls of any length or height gain stiffness from piers: the Brick Pier Calculator covers them, and the Brick Boundary Wall Calculator quantifies the whole wall, piers and copings together.

  6. Movement joints on long runs

    Masonry moves with temperature and moisture, and long unbroken runs will crack without joints to absorb it. Position them with the Movement Joint Calculator, with the spacing rules in the Movement Joint Spacing reference.

  7. Point the joints, then cap the wall

    Joints are finished when the mortar is thumbprint-hard, and the wall is capped with copings that overhang and shed water: an uncapped wall top soaks up rain and suffers frost damage. The Brick Boundary Wall Calculator includes coping quantities, the pointing glossary entry covers the joint profiles, and the full method is in our step-by-step garden wall guide.

What you will be ordering

Below ground: foundation concrete, either site-mixed from cement, sand and aggregate or delivered ready-mixed. In the wall: facing bricks or concrete blocks (ordered with a margin for cuts and breakages, from one batch so the colour matches), cement and building sand for the mortar with a plasticiser, and a roll of damp-proof course the width of the wall.

On top and in between: coping stones or capping to finish the wall, and movement joint filler and sealant for long runs. The Brick Boundary Wall Calculator quantifies most of this in one pass; the individual calculators above cover each material separately.

The rules that touch a garden wall

Planning and permitted development

Garden walls have permitted development height limits, with a lower limit where the wall fronts a highway, and different rules in conservation areas and around listed buildings: check with the Fence Height Calculator and the Permitted Development Checker.

Boundaries and the Party Wall Act

A wall built astride a boundary, or excavation close to a neighbour's structure, can trigger Party Wall Act notices: the Party Wall Checker covers the cases, and the party wall glossary entry explains the terms.

Structure

High walls, retaining walls and walls in exposed locations are a different class of job from a low garden wall: retaining walls hold back ground and need proper design (see the Retaining Wall Calculator and our retaining wall guide), and a structural engineer should be involved for anything tall, retaining, or carrying gates.

Every calculator, by job stage

Rules and Permissions

Foundations

The Wall Itself

Materials Know-How

Guides and Aftercare

Frequently Asked Questions

All calculators are free to use with no signup required. Results are estimates: verify quantities on site. Retaining walls, high walls and walls carrying gates need proper structural design. Check for underground services before digging, and confirm planning and boundary questions with your local authority where in doubt.